DAY 2: The Endless Fields of Hokkaido

I start my day early, not because of responsible thinking on my part, but due to the almost hurricane-like northern wind that violently inhabits Soya. Having tried to sleep, but with no luck, at 5AM I decide to get the day going. I am greeted by a group of Japanese girls who, upon seeing my tent, giggle at the site of me coming out of it.

I pack all my things up and head South for the first time. Mile 0 and I start counting.

The Hills:
Florida's flat. Japan is clearly not. The first hills I encounter are supposed to be so easy that Google Earth does not even show them on the map. I struggle as I make my way up but am rewarded by a close encounter with a pack of deer. I try to approach them, but they run away. Not interested in peanut butter.

Flat Countryside:
For some time I experience the perfect conditions. The sun is shining but it is not hot, and the long, flat road is sandwiched between beautiful farm fields that are dotted with cows. In the fresh air, the smells of the country, hay, and stables are coupled with the sounds of men working the fields.

I stop and rest near some abandoned silos where I eat a strange bag of chips I bought at a convenience store back in Cape Soya. I also stop at a small Jinja (shrine) in the hopes that it will bring me luck.

The wind is back. This time much, much stronger. The bastard seems to know when I am the most tired as he quickly makes his way on to the scene while I begin to slow down. It also manages to push in the wrong direction 90% of the time. This time the wind is so constant and powerful that with all the weight on and miles behind me, I manage to ride at around 5km per hour. In layman's terms, somewhere between the speed of a turtle and that of a severely retarded blind rabbit. This goes on for the rest of the day as I occasionally look up and curse my angers away.

Food at Last!

I stop at what I can only describe as a petting zoo with a restaurant. I get some pasta with tabasco sauce. Nothing authentic here, but 5 hours of thinking about food makes you eat anything and enjoy it. The skies are gray and the once enjoyable fields have at this point become terribly monotonous. The wind? Yeah, still blowing like holy hell.

Teshio Town:
I finally reach my destination for today. This small town is nothing pleasing to the eye. As I pedal my last few miles of the day, I find an onsen sign! An onsen is a geothermal natural hotspring bathhouse which I very much look forward to using. I inquire, but once the girl understands the length of my travels, her mom invites me into their property. We sit in their workshop where the two make clay tea cups along with two friends.

The four women quickly get to like me and I them, especially when they feed me dinner. After at least an hour, they tell me that it is not good to camp in northern Hokkaido as kuma (bears) roam these parts. My "holy sh*t" slipping out of my mouth is fortunately not understood by the ladies. They direct me to the almost hurricane-like onsen. Having lost time, the sun begins to set.

Awkward, Awkward Onsen:
I take off my shoes, get into the lockerroom, get butt ass naked along with older Japanese men, and enter the onsen. There are precise rules. Wash first a certain way. Then bathe. Bring a towel but don't put in water etc. etc. etc...

The strange sight of a naked Italian-American who can easily be mistaken for an array of other nationalities makes each local in the onsen stare at me. I relax, get out, and put my clothes back on. Very awkward.

The Riders' House:
Directed by the four women who fed me earlier, I reach my final destination. A riders' house is a camping ground for motorcycle riders. Here I meet Yuya from Osaka, Tetsuya from Nara and Kawatsure from Gunma. The three of them invite me to crash in their riders' house and I accept. After joking around trying to understand each other, I decide to go to bed as I have been awake for too long. This is where I am now. Goodnight.

PS: Phone blogging app sux. That's why the formatting is bad. Sumimasen.